The Counterproductive Nature of The Hair Chart
The Hair Chart, formally known as the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, originated in the 1990s under the guidance of Andre Walker, the esteemed hair stylist for Oprah Winfrey. Originally conceived to showcase Walker's line of hair care products, it has since evolved into a widely accepted and utilized classification system for different hair types. Categorized on a scale from Type 1 to Type 4, the Hair Chart delineates straight hair as Type 1 and attributes Type 4 to the curliest hair. Additionally, the letters a-c within each type denote the spectrum of hair texture, ranging from straighter (a) to curlier (c).
Texturism: Reverse the Hair Chart
"If 4c hair is the most fragile hair type, why is it the last on the chart?"
But even more questionable.
"If 4c hair is the most fragile hair type, why is it the most understudied in cosmetology and trichology, least represented in the media, and the least researched on in product formulation and testing? "
Simply put, texturism.
What is most concerning is that 4c hair is the most fragile hair texture, and the most prone to breakage, yet it stands the last on the hair typing chart, last on social media algorithms, last in mind for research, product formulation and testing, and last in the hearts of professionals in cosmetology and trichology. The inherent nature of the hair classification chart proves counterproductive, as it has regrettably transformed into a hierarchy that prioritizes straight hair above all other types, despite curlier end of the spectrum being the most fragile.
This underscores a need for a more comprehensive and equitable approach in addressing texturism within the industry.
A Great Disservice to the Hair Care Industry
The hair chart is no longer a classification system, but a hierarchical system. This hierarchy is disadvantageous to the hair care community as a whole, as it overlooks the most suitable subjects to conduct research on common hair and scalp issues relating to combatting hair loss, length retention, moisture retention, the hair growth cycle, and more. Think about it. Since 4c hair is the most fragile hair type and most prone to breakage. If a product or technique proves effective in retaining moisture and length on type 4c hair, then it is most likely to benefit all hair types experiencing breakage too. What if the lack of research of 4c hair is the missing key to understanding moisture and length retention collectively? A product is not inclusive if it doesn't work for 4c hair. Overlooking the care or needs of tighter curls on the spectrum may be the problem. It's time to reverse the chart.
"Debunking the Stereotypes of 4c Hair "
The underrepresentation of 4c hair in the media, in research, hair product formulation has left an overwhelming majority of women with this hair texture to have long and complicated relationships with their hair, often discouraging them to even attempt to learn to love and care for their crown.
Due to lack of positive exposure, 4c hair has been associated with negative connotations of being "unattractive, unruly, dry, damaged, coarse, and never growing."
This discrimination has permeated even within the black community, conditioning even black women to favor looser curls. In 2016, a tweet surfaced, stirring up controversy proclaiming that "Biracial women hijacked the natural hair movement," claiming they assuming the role of the spokesperson for the natural hair community, became the face of advertising curly hair products, though largely targeting an unambiguous black audience.
If a woman with 4c hair is ever respresented in your favorite natural hair care brand's advertisements, it's solemn and they often sport short, pixie fros. Though health trumps length anyday. This raises questions. Are there not any women with long, healthy 4c hair? Do women with long 4c hair just not exist or are they just marginalized among the prejudice social media algorithm?
Following our brand's extensive research, we concluded that 4c hair bloggers were drowning at the bottom of all social media algorithms. It's time for their crowns to receive the spotlight they deserve. Presenting 25 vloggers with healthy Type 4B/4C waist-length to thigh length hair, in no particular order!
1. Indigenous Standz
2. Efficiently Natural
3. Naturally High
4. Naturally Nica
5. Obaa Yaa Jones
6. Eugenia Kelly
7. West African Baby
8. Temitope Adesina
9. Natural Academia
10. Dephne Aviyah
11. Lindsay Chris
12. What Lies Beneath The Weave
13. Craving Curly Kinks
14. If She So Pleases
15. Mila Mi
16. Beautosal
17. Tia Lynn
18. Mrs. Charity Umar
19. Fatima Farouk
20. Naturally Crowned By Novella
21. Organically Nicolet
22. Sharon Souebi Dan-Jack
23. Educated Natural Queen
24. Naturalblackgirlie
25. Gbemisola
Gbemisola gets her hair texturise. Unless I am mistaken. Isn't that a process that requires relaxer? Or it doesn't matter
Thank you for this! I’ve been following some of these ladies for years and I’ve noticed some good growth. Now I’m onto Pigmented products to hopefully get over my plateau in growth. Can’t wait to see the results